London Fashion Week September 2017, in the basement of a Pop Up store in Covent Garden, departing from conventional catwalks, JUDY WU’s presentation of its Spring/Summer 2018 La Lumière collection turned the grungy venue into a modernist laboratory.
On one side of this industrial space, displaying the key pieces from the SS18 collection, mannequins wrapped with bandages dyed in flesh, fuscia and Kelly green echoing the color pallet and hinting at the subject under discussion.
On the other side of the room, three brightly coloured and half see through handbags filled with tampons were displayed on plinths – another metaphor used to engage the audiences’ minds.
The two-hour event started with a single model in the center of the room with JUDY WU team members dressed in laboratory coats busy structuring translucent TPU panels around her skirt - resulting in, at the end of the performance, a conceptual centerpiece.
The collection, La Lumière, inspired by Picasso’s cubist paintings, aims to shine a light on the pressure and expectations women face in pursuit of “Perfection”.
On this ideological path, the surgical table draws many parallels throughout the collection … Surgical cuts are reflected in the abstract paneling, the scars and stitches from surgery are detailed in heavy contrast top-stitching to oversized embroidered eyelets with lacing …
With self-deprecation and reflection, Wu hopes to empower women to find the strength within and reclaim the essence and individuality of femininity.